The Yamaichi Y-Con series is well known for its unique IP69K protection level, and now there is an additional metal cover available (Y-ConCover-30), which also enhances the mechanical protection should it be required. The Y-ConCover-30 can be retrofitted to existing cable assemblies by simply screwing the two metal covers together. The screws are made from stainless steel, and the robust cover from high-quality die-cast zinc.

Target applications are, for example, heavy-duty connections such as factory systems, oil rigs or in onboard building equipment networks and ships.

The operating temperature of the product is -20 to +120C.

All the existing Y-Con RJ45, ProfiNet, USB and IEEE (FireWire) IP67/68/69K housings can be delivered with the Y-ConCover-30 metal cover, and it can also be retrofitted.

All of the features that make metal railings so desirable. Different kinds of metal railings. Different designs that can be done in metal railings.

There are many advantages to metal railings, and these will become apparant to you once you have read this article. Other materials are available for railings such as PVC, wood, or glass. But metal railings have the following advantages over these:

-Metal railings come in small, lightweight sections that can be crafted to suit any purpose.
-Metal railings do not rot or splinter the way wood railings do.
-Metal railings can be designed to suit a custom design without a lot of expense.
-Metal railings can be cast metal, or tubing material; depending on your budget, you have your choice.
-Metal railings are much longer lasting than wood or PVC, even in the most extreme outdoor settings.
-Metal railings, if they are properly coated wtih a powder coated paint, can last more than thirty years.
-Metal railings require little care other than a light cleaning from time to time.

The most commonly used metals in railings are Stainless steel, wrought iron, aluminum and brass. Let's examine the advantages of each one of these metals:

Stainless steel is the most common material for railings. It possesses a great weight to strength ratio and holds color and luster better than other materials and is not subject to corrosion. It is very easy to work with since it can be pressed through a power press without suffering any damage. Stainless steel give a very modern look to the architecture of a building.

Wrought iron is another popular, commonly used material for railings. There is a certain "period" look that wrought iron gives to a building. Wrought iron is heavy, so it does not have the strength/weight advantage of stainless, but it is very strong and has little maintenance requirements. With the proper paint, it will require nothing further than light cleaning from time to time. If wrought iron does break, which is not easy to do, replacement is not easy, as re-welding would be required and you may not be able to get a similar pattern to replace it.

Aluminum is lightweight and durable, and able to be shaped into any straight pattern. It is difficult to make any curved patterns with aluminum, but if a straight or square style is desired, aluminum works perfectly. Aluminum is as easy to care for as stainless stell and is very durable.

To be a successful scrap metal dealer you must be able to handle large orders – constantly and consistently. You must be able to pay for the scrap metal costs in advance (and at the best prices) and then wait 30 to 60 days until the transaction is settled to get your investment and profit back. However, few scrap metal traders can handle many large orders at a time while waiting 30 to 60 days to get paid. Therein lies the problem.

Many dealers try to go to the bank hoping to get business financing. However, they soon discover that most banks don’t understand the recycled scrap metal business well and don’t have the right solutions for the industry. Furthermore, getting bank financing is especially hard since banks require that you show three years of profitable business history and have sizeable collateral before making a loan.

Either way, banks loans don’t always work well for scrap metal dealers. In this industry, once you find the best scrap metal prices, you must move quickly to seal the deal. A better solution than bank financing is to use purchase order financing.

Purchase order funding provides you with the necessary funds to execute your confirmed POs. It provides you the financing to pay scrap metal suppliers, enabling you to deliver the goods and close the sale. Purchase order financing is easy to use and works as follows:

1. The scrap metal dealer / trader secures a purchase order from a customer

2. The purchase order finance company then pays the scrap metal costs from the supplier yard (usually by placing a deposit or using a letter of credit)

3. The yard delivers the scrap metal to the customer according to the order

4. Once the customer pays for the scrap metal, the transaction is settled

Purchase order financing has a number of advantages over conventional bank financing. First, it’s very easy to obtain. The biggest requirement is that your company have purchase orders form commercially credit worthy customers. And second, it can be set up quickly. Most of the times you can get the financing in days (rather than months). And as opposed to bank financing, most startups will qualify.

Many times, po financing can be used in combination with factoring financing. Combining these two products can allow your business to fully optimize its cash flow, enabling it to grow at an even faster rate.

What metal detector should I buy

There are many questions you should ask yourself before buying a new metal detector. Questions that only you have the answer to.

What is my budget?
What type of metal detecting will I be doing?
What are my physical capabilities?
What experience do I have with metal detectors?

The first question you should ask yourself is how much you are willing to spend on a new metal detector. Once you are set on a budget you can start eliminating metal detectors that are out of your price range. This is important, because of the wide price range of metal detectors. Metal detectors typically range from about $200 up to $1500. Keep in mind that you get what you pay for in most cases. If you buy a metal detector for $200 it will not have the options or performance of a higher priced metal detector. Also keep in mind that if you buy a high priced metal detector with all the bells and whistles and have no clue how to use it the bells and whistle mean nothing and are useless to you.

I generally recommend some of these metal detectors to those that are new to metal detecting.

Fisher's 1225 X (retail price: $299.95)
Garrett's Ace 250 (retail price: $249.95)
Minelab's X-terra 30 (retail price: $499.95)

Keep in mind that metal detectors hold their value quite well. Trading up to something bigger and better once you have the feel of metal detecting is always an option.

Once you know how much you are willing to spend on a new metal detector you need to figure out how you will be using it. What kind of metal detecting will you be doing?

The different types of metal detecting can be summed up into the following.

General metal detecting (parks, yards, beaches)
Beach hunting (salt and fresh water beaches)
Relic hunting (ruff terrain)
Gold (hunting for raw gold)
Under water (under water metal detecting)

You need to ask yourself this question for obvious reasons. If you plan on metal detecting under water, you would not want to buy a metal detector built for metal detecting land. Once you know what kind of metal detecting you will be doing you can narrow down your choices even more. You now know, what you can afford and what type of metal detecting you will be doing.

The third question you may want to ask yourself. What are my physical capabilities? This is also a very important question. If you have a physical disability you are not going to want to purchase a heavy metal detector. You would think that most metal detectors weigh about the same and that an extra pound or two would not make that much of a difference, but it does. Some metal detectors are very heavy and require good physical capabilities to operate efficiently.

What is my experience level? This is also a very important question to ask yourself before purchasing a metal detector.

If you are new to metal detecting I don't advise buying a metal detector that is going to overwhelm you while out metal detecting. It is good to start simple, get a feel for the hobby and what metal detecting is all about. As I mentioned earlier in this article "Trading up is always an option". If you become frustrated with your metal detector out in the field because you don't understand it, chances are you are not enjoying yourself and will eventually quit metal detecting as quick as you picked it up.

Some things to keep in mind when shopping around.

Any good metal detector dealer will take the time to work with you and answer your questions. Metal detector sales is like any other business. You will run across the sales man that is only interested in selling you the unit he is going to make the most profit off of.

Before going to buy your new metal detector sit down with a piece of paper and write down any and all questions you might have. Talk with the dealer ask all of your questions, if you start to feel pressured and are not getting the answers you seek, WALK OUT! Find a different dealer.

Most dealers Have demo's in their shops. This will give you a chance to try a few models before buying.

How do you rate your metal detecting success? Are you consistently finding keepers? Are you satisfied with your metal detecting finds? For a large body of us in the metal detecting field the answer is no.

With all of the improvements in technology. It makes you wonder why. Why are the majority of us not finding what we are looking for? Why are the majority of us not making consistently good finds? Why do many of us struggle to become successful at metal detecting?

I think the answer is really quite simple and boils down to where you are metal detecting And not on what metal detector you use. Many of us seem to think, the better the metal detector the more keepers I will find. Another pitfall is laziness, opting to hunt the obvious and accessible. Detecting that same old park over and over again. Sure there probably are a few more keepers left in that old worked out park, but there is a lot better ground in your local, you can bet on it.

In order to become "successful" you have to start doing things differently. Quit wasting your time in that worked out park and start finding yourself some new and productive sites.

You will be impressed by the increased number of keepers you will find by taking some extra time locating new fresh sites to metal detect . I'm not talking about in depth research, but simple actions like asking the owner of that 100 year old house for permission to hunt. Maybe scanning through some old newspapers or even grabbing some potential sites off of an old map.

Very low frequency (VLF), also known as induction balance, is probably the most popular metal detector technology in use today. In a VLF metal detector, there are two distinct coils:

* Transmitter coil - This is the outer coil loop. Within it is a coil of wire. Electricity is sent along this wire, first in one direction and then in the other, thousands of times each second. The number of times that the current's direction switches each second establishes the frequency of the unit.
* Receiver coil - This inner coil loop contains another coil of wire. This wire acts as an antenna to pick up and amplify frequencies coming from target objects in the ground.

The current moving through the transmitter coil creates an electromagnetic field, which is like what happens in an electric motor. The polarity of the magnetic field is perpendicular to the coil of wire. Each time the current changes direction, the polarity of the magnetic field changes. This means that if the coil of wire is parallel to the ground, the magnetic field is constantly pushing down into the ground and then pulling back out of it.

As the magnetic field pulses back and forth into the ground, it interacts with any conductive objects it encounters, causing them to generate weak magnetic fields of their own. The polarity of the object's magnetic field is directly opposite the transmitter coil's magnetic field. If the transmitter coil's field is pulsing downward, the object's field is pulsing upward.

The receiver coil is completely shielded from the magnetic field generated by the transmitter coil. However, it is not shielded from magnetic fields coming from objects in the ground. Therefore, when the receiver coil passes over an object giving off a magnetic field, a small electric current travels through the coil. This current oscillates at the same frequency as the object's magnetic field. The coil amplifies the frequency and sends it to the control box of the metal detector, where sensors analyze the signal.

The metal detector can determine approximately how deep the object is buried based on the strength of the magnetic field it generates. The closer to the surface an object is, the stronger the magnetic field picked up by the receiver coil and the stronger the electric current generated. The farther below the surface, the weaker the field. Beyond a certain depth, the object's field is so weak at the surface that it is undetectable by the receiver coil.

How does a VLF metal detector distinguish between different metals? It relies on a phenomenon known as phase shifting. Phase shift is the difference in timing between the transmitter coil's frequency and the frequency of the target object. This discrepancy can result from a couple of things:

* Inductance - An object that conducts electricity easily (is inductive) is slow to react to changes in the current. You can think of inductance as a deep river: Change the amount of water flowing into the river and it takes some time before you see a difference.
* Resistance - An object that does not conduct electricity easily (is resistive) is quick to react to changes in the current. Using our water analogy, resistance would be a small, shallow stream: Change the amount of water flowing into the stream and you notice a drop in the water level very quickly.

Basically, this means that an object with high inductance is going to have a larger phase shift, because it takes longer to alter its magnetic field. An object with high resistance is going to have a smaller phase shift.

Phase shift provides VLF-based metal detectors with a capability called discrimination. Since most metals vary in both inductance and resistance, a VLF metal detector examines the amount of phase shift, using a pair of electronic circuits called phase demodulators, and compares it with the average for a particular type of metal. The detector then notifies you with an audible tone or visual indicator as to what range of metals the object is likely to be in.

Many metal detectors even allow you to filter out (discriminate) objects above a certain phase-shift level. Usually, you can set the level of phase shift that is filtered, generally by adjusting a knob that increases or decreases the threshold. Another discrimination feature of VLF detectors is called notching. Essentially, a notch is a discrimination filter for a particular segment of phase shift. The metal detector will not only alert you to objects above this segment, as normal discrimination would, but also to objects below it.

Advanced metal detectors even allow you to program multiple notches. For example, you could set the detector to disregard objects that have a phase shift comparable to a soda-can tab or a small nail. The disadvantage of discrimination and notching is that many valuable items might be filtered out because their phase shift is similar to that of "junk". But, if you know that you are looking for a specific type of object, these features can be extremely useful.